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A trip to Amritsar is worth it only for the food here.
This is the land of ghee and butter illustrating all Punjabi
stereotypes of hearty eating. People with dietary
restrictions might want to go easy on the rich fare.
Incidentally, Amritsar has the highest incidents of heart
disease in the country. Although Pizza Hut and Costa Coffee
have set shop here, head for the traditional fare for real
culinary bliss.
When in Amritsar do sample the real chhola-kulcha, different
from anything you might have tasted before. Fresh from the
tandoor, the kulchas are stuffed with potato and onion,
sprinkled with zeera on top and served with a generous
dollop of butter. The chhole, chick peas, are spicy and
slightly minced and come with a chutney of onions in a paste
of tamarind and jaggery.
A must visit is the Chhole-Kulche Wala Dhaba on Maqbool Road
where you can enjoy the food sitting outside in the shade of
trees. Big cars as well as cycle rickshaws are parked here
in a happy mix of democracy and secularism Amritsar
exemplifies. A thali will cost you Rs. 15.
For more genteel surroundings visit Bharawan da Dhaba
opposite Town Hall. Popular with the locals, this eatery has
been in business since 1917 has grown into an air
conditioned restaurant. Try the kaali daal and the various
thalis on offer, none of which will cost you more than Rs.
70 per person. Also try Amritsar’s famous sweets such as
phirni and ras malai served here, as well as all over the
city in small dhabas and kiosks. If you want to go for
something lighter after the heavy meal, take advantage of
the numerous juice vendors and kiosks selling freshly cut
fruit right outside, opposite Town Hall.
For a typical Amritsari breakfast (or brunch, considering
how heavy it is), visit Kanha’s at Lawrence Road serving
fluffy poories with tangy potato curry. The city is big on
rich snacks too and you can stop by at any neighbourhood
kiosk and gorge on crisp samosas and spicy kachauris. Top it
all up with a frothy glass of lassi from the stalls at every
corner. Also do not miss the langar at the Golden Temple.
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